Archive for the ‘Food & Drink’ Category

Fish… my favourite dish

Wednesday, November 4th, 2009
Photography by Annie Peel

Photography by Annie Peel

Whilst the weather ain’t exactly wintry just yet, it certainly is the time of year to start getting into soups and one pot wonders. The idea of eating a hot soup in summer is positively frightening so being able to cook and eat them again now must be one of the consolations for the sun going down earlier and earlier.

I love soups. I love thinking about them, I love making them and I love eating them. If I can I’m gonna get me cremated in a golden soup tureen instead of a walnut veneer coffin.

Stock is of course an important part of soup making. Purists will tell you that you should use no stock in vegetable soups as it takes away from the essential flavour. Be that as it may I almost invariably use stock in soups because I think it adds depth of flavour. Continue reading Fish… my favourite dish

Little Yellow Courgettes

Wednesday, July 22nd, 2009
Photography by Annie Peel

Photography by Annie Peel

It does all seem to be about vegetables these days. Each time I think I’m going to write about flesh some vegetable comes along and demands my attention. This time it’s courgettes. Little yellow courgettes.
Continue reading Little Yellow Courgettes

Escalivada – a work of art

Tuesday, July 7th, 2009

This salad is a work of art and like all great art, he said pompously, it utterly transcends its form.

It is also simplicity itself. It is an ancient Catalan recipe and very versatile. I prepare it here as an accompaniment to beef but it can also be served on its own as a salad course. It is sublime on toast with Escala anchovies as a canape or starter and I have even heard of it served with foie gras, which I think sounds frankly bizarre.
Continue reading Escalivada – a work of art

Bloody Gazpacho

Monday, June 29th, 2009

I have always found Bloody Marys rather difficult. That thick, gloopy, red tomato juice is just a little too thick for a hair of the dog that bit me. Invariably I am offered it after a very heavy night and upon drinking it I become dangerously close to doing exactly what it is designed to appease – throwing up. Also there is nothing in that drink that can in any way revitalise… unless you count the vodka and that is just deluded.

SO Bloody Gazpacho is what I recommend. If you have had the good sense to drink a good glassful of homemade gazpacho before you finally go to bed after that impossibly long session your hangover will be diminished considerably by the time you wake up.
Continue reading Bloody Gazpacho

Apricot Glut

Tuesday, June 16th, 2009

The botanical name for the apricot is prunus armeniaca. All botanical names are Latin which makes no sense in this case because it was the Greeks that  named it, erroneously thinking it came from Armenia. Which it didn’t. Everyone knows they comes from Leeds. The Romans called apricots praecocium, meaning precocious which I normally associate with children but they were drunk a lot of the time. Drunk and fornicating.
Continue reading Apricot Glut

Strawberries – the other big red

Friday, May 29th, 2009

strawberries

Strawberries are in the shops in full force at the moment, with the ones from the island being sweeter, redder and better than those from the Costa Plastica (an immense tract of land somewhere in the south of Spain covered in enormous greenhouses). I was in the veg shack outside Santa Gertrudis de la Fruitera yesterday and they currently have HUGE quantities of these little mothers.

There are so many places you can stick strawberries. Jams, smoothies, cakes, ice creams and sorbets. Mashed up with yoghurt. You gotta wash ‘em though, before you start sticking them places ‘cos they absorb any kind of deterrent sprayed on them so you gots to wash them. Try adding a banana and some strawberries to your morning juice every day until the season is over – the juice will taste nicer, you will be happier and you will probably live longer too.
Continue reading Strawberries – the other big red

Killing Thyme

Tuesday, May 19th, 2009

Photography by Annie Peel

Tiny mauve buds open into white petals with just the vaguest hint of violet. Because it is new growth the leaves are a light green and their texture has not become too dry yet. The stalk is all soft too. At this time (thyme, ha ha, how hilarious) of year I add it to sauces such as salsa verde and mix into salads. As the season goes on I find it dries out too much so ain’t that nice, just raw. It ain’t bad, don’t get me wrong, its just not so nice.

Women make infusions with it and say it tastes nice. It is distinctly good for you. You could add it to (the) lemonade (you have been conscientiously making since my last entry). You can add it to just about everything you eat at the moment and it has a particular affinity with white fish, chicken and tomatoes. In fact, it goes jolly nice with goats cheese salad.

Thyme grows wild  here so you if you wanted some for free you could go for a walk and dig some up. Alternatively you could just drive to a garden centre and buy some. Or get someone else to.

Beyond my pots and flower beds the field opposite has now become baked sand colour and will stay that way till September/October of next year. Until now it has been a kaleidoscope of colour. It seems to change from week to week from that bright yellow citrusy stuff to the bluey purple of the borage and the blood red of the poppies. There are also white rocket flowers and my favourite of all, the pink garlic flowers – of which more another thyme.

Photography by Annie Peel

Goats Cheese Salad

  • Half a tomato per person roasted with olive oil, balsamic vinegar, Maldon salt, black pepper and thyme (do this slowly so the tomato dehydrates intensifying the flavour and sweetness)
  • The nicest leaves you can get hold of (there are some superb mixes of organic leaves at the moment, many of them coming from Farmer Rene ‘s Organic Garden Can Riera)
  • Toasted pinenuts
  • A vinaigrette made with sherry vinegar, dijon mustard, salt, garlic and olive oil

Toss all these together and add on top:

  • 1 slice of goats cheese per person, grilled till golden and bubbling
  • 1 slice of Juanito’s white bread toasted and rubbed with garlic (not optional)

Photography by Annie Peel

You great big lemon

Tuesday, May 5th, 2009

Citrus fruits are glorious fruits and all of them have their place in the kitchen. But king of the kitchen would have to be the lemon. So versatile, so uplifting, so… yellow. Here in Ibiza, as with almost all of the indigenous produce, the lemons are hard to beat. Big and sweet but sharp, with good thick pith and skin – I have had lemons here that are pure sherbet.

The lemon season starts in December but it is around now that they really come into their own. Nobody who knows anything about lemons agrees with me on this but I reckon that they are a bit like grapes – the longer they stay on the vine/branch, the sweeter they become.

In the kitchen they are a must in so many dishes, particularly the zest. The zest gets into just about every salad I make during the summer leaving me with a fridge full of zested but un-sqeezed lemons. They get stored in the fridge once they are zested ‘cos otherwise they deteriorate very quickly but the juice always gets used up pronto. Into dressings, over fish, over lamb, into sauces, into sorbets and ice creams and most excellently into lemonade. Homemade lemonade. Enough to make you weep it is so good. Below is a recipe that once tried will be tried again and again.

When you are zesting lemons make sure you don’t dig into the pith as it gives an acrid aftertaste. The two best ways of removing the zest that I know of is by grating it (see below) or by shaving it with a potato peeler and then cutting off any pith you may have shaved of with the skin.

An aside: There is an unbelievably excellent grater that has come on the market in the last few year and is unsurpassable for fine zesting lemons (and creating snow-like grated parmesan). It is called a Microplane and was invented by a carpenter-cum-home chef. He was making spaghetti for his kids and couldn’t find the grater so went to his workshop, brought back a wood plane and voilá – the best addition to Kitchen Paraphernalia in recent years was born. If you don’t got one – get one…



Lemonade
Perfect this and you will never be lonely.

  • 7 good sized lemons make around 500ml
  • 250g sugar
  • 500ml lemon juice
  • 1.75l water
  • Zest the lemons, though you can forego this is you have a fridge full of zested lemons!
  • Squeeze the lemons.
  • Add juice, zest and sugar and dissolve over slow heat.
  • Sieve out the zest.
  • At this point you have cordial and this will keep in your fridge till hell freezes over.
  • When needed pour half of it  into a jug and fill with crushed ice, mint and slices of lemon and orange and then pour in around a litre of water. If you wanna really get them going fill with fizzy water.

Nice.

Let them eat… Patatas a lo pobre (Poor man’s potatoes)

Tuesday, April 21st, 2009

This is an Andalucian dish – or more like it is the Andalucian name for it. It is served all over Spain and here in Ibiza it is the typical accompaniment when you have baked fish. God, what a delight. Fried potatoes that are then baked alongside really big, ugly, firm fleshed rock fish like rotxa or John Dory. Why is it I wonder that the more ugly the fish, the tastier it is?

The better fish restaurants take these fish and do almost nothing to them but bake them with a bit of wine and these potatoes. The potatoes are prepared first because despite these big boned mothers being able to handle a some fairly hot baking, potatoes need a head start to avoid overcooking the fish.

You can also eat patatas a lo pobre deliciously next to chicken, rabbit, pork chops etc. Think unctuous potatoes next to golden meat.

To make them you need to heat up some olive oil and put in half a baker’s dozen of unpeeled whole garlic cloves. As they are gently sautéing, peel and slice half a kilo of red Ibiza potatoes. DO NOT SETTLE FOR LESS – IBIZA RED POTATOES OR NOTHING (unless of course you cant get them, in which case get the best waxy potatoes you can get and don’t settle for less the next time). Put them into the oil with the garlic. Peel an onion and slice it into fingernail moons and add to the pan. Rip up the pepper, discarding the seeds and stalk then add to the pan. Once everything is in, turn the heat up to medium and stir occasionally till it is cooked.

This is one of those dishes that can be prepared as you are cooking it – ie, whilst the garlic is frying, you be peeling the potatoes and whilst the potatoes are frying you can peel the onion and so on. You can also prepare this ahead of time and reheat later.

If you are doing it with a rock fish, get your monger to gut that mother, season it with salt and pepper, splash him with wine, add the cooked potatoes and bake it all in a hot oven (180 degrees with fan, 210 without) until it’s done. (Sorry, timing’s impossible – simply when skin breaks and flesh comes away from the bone, it is done. You may have to take it out, look at it and put it back a couple of times. Its head should look like something from a horror film with all the flesh coming away and its eyes popping out.)

When deciding how much oil to put in always veer on the side of recklessness and know that with olive oil, more is best…


Ingredients
Olive oil
Salt
1 head of garlic
½ kilo potatoes
1 onion
1 super crisp long Italian green pepper

Method
Fry unpeeled garlic
Fry peeled, sliced potatoes
Season
Fry peeled chopped garlic
Fry sliced onion
Fry deseeded ripped up green peppers

Authentic Easter Bunnies

Tuesday, April 14th, 2009

I saw a jolly hunter
A poem by Charles Causley

I saw a jolly hunter
with a jolly gun
Walking in the country
In the jolly sun

In the jolly meadow
sat a jolly hare
saw the jolly hunter
took jolly care

Hunter jolly eager
sight of jolly prey
forgot gun pointing
wrong jolly way(!)

Jolly hunter jolly head
over heels gone
jolly old safety catch
not jolly on!
Bang! went the jolly gun
Hunter jolly dead
Jolly Hare got clean away
Jolly good I said

Goddamn shame I say ‘cos they taste awful good.

Easter is associated with spring lamb and last year I grilled a whole milk fed lamb in my garden – which was more difficult than I had imagined it would be. Mind you, putting any kind of meat on a charcoal grill the size of a bed and walking off for 20 minutes is never a good idea… especially if you are drunk and have never grilled a whole lamb before! It turned out ok in the end (which is outrageous ‘cos it should have been beyond compare).

Anyway, this year was different. We had to bypass the Easter eggs as they were confiscated at passport control back in February. Long story. Since Easter is also associated with Bunnies, I thought this time I’d kill two birds with one stone.

How? We had rabbit with chocolate. This may sound weird and indeed it is. BUT it is good. Rabbits are only really for those who love food as for some reason many people can’t bear the idea of eating a cuddly wuddly luverly likkle wabbit. Eat a cow, oh yeah sure, no problem. But not a little bunny. Jesus. (Insert further Easter associations here.)

The Ibicencos aren’t so sentimental. They eat rabbits all the time. A popular dish here is rabbit with almonds, which is basically what I made but with the addition of chocolate stirred in at the end. I say ‘basically’ because it was crossed with a similar – but much more spicy – dish from Mexico (Lindo) called Mole. (This has nothing to do with short-sighted subterranean rodents, it just happens to be the name of the dish. However when I was there it did make me smile every time I saw the billboard signs announcing AQUI HAY MOLE. Something very Monty Python about it.)

The recipe is quite long winded but I have it if you want it. It entails lots of searing, sweating, toasting and pulverising so you know its gotta be good.